By Staff
waterhead.com
October 9, 2011

The sport of surfing is the most elemental and primal of all water activities. In addition, it is among the most difficult and exciting sports in which one can participate. Many surfers describe the experience as spiritual. Surfing has both a modern and ancient history, and due to its unique characteristics, it has mesmerized millions of people all around the world.

Surfing in History

Many historians believe the first surfers were ancient Peruvians who lived approximately two centuries ago. In these ancient times, surfers practiced on boats crafted from reeds of the Caballitos de Tortora plant.

Surfing was also embraced in its early form by the ancient Polynesians. This form of surfing was a bit more similar to the style of surfing seen today than the version practiced by the Peruvians, although both sports were virtually the same.

To the Polynesians who were to become the first Hawaiians, surfing was much more than a mere sport. It was an art from that had deep cultural meaning, and those who excelled at it were recognized as social leaders.

Ancient Hawaiians referred to their type of surfing as "wave sliding," and they took each aspect of the sport seriously, from the materials used to construct the board to the actual riding of the waves.

In ancient Hawaii, surfboards were made from one of three different timbers: wiliwli, 'ulu or koa. Surfers would choose their tree and dig it up, being careful to fill hole where it once stood with an offering to the gods, typically fresh fish from the sea. The timber was then passed to a craftsman, who was skilled in the shaping of surfboards.

There were three kinds of surfboards as well, the first of which was the 'olo. This board featured a thick midsection that slowly tapered off toward each end. The second type was a kiko'o board. These boards were sometimes as long as 18 feet, making them difficult to maneuver on the water. The alaia surfboard was also a long model that required a high level of skill to master. The last two types were typically used by warriors or chiefs.

Most of the ancient Hawaiians considered surfing a spiritual activity, and many surfers received a priest's blessing before heading into the waves.

Surfing in Modern Times

Surfing did not become popular in the United States until the early 1900s, when George Freeth began demonstrating the sport in Huntington Beach, California. Most historians regard Freeth as the first contemporary surfer.

Several years after surfing was introduced to the United States Duke Kahanamoku', a Hawaiian swimmer, demonstrated the sport in Australia. To this day, the modern surfing culture still thrives in Australia, California and Hawaii.

Surfing as an Art

Surfing has changed and grown over the past few thousand years, and dedicated surfers are now considered more than merely wave riders. They are experts on weather patterns, various wave formations, and have learned to master an impressive number of  maneuvers.

The Science Behind Waves

Waves occur due to the way various winds blow over the water's surface. Swell waves are great for surfing, and these are created when the wind blows consistently on the water. Tube waves occur when moderate, short winds blow into the swell waves. Tube waves are also regarded as perfect for surfing.

Waves are classed by their speed and shape. They can be almond-shaped, round or square, depending on their length-to-width ratio. They also feature various speeds which depend on a variety of conditions, but are typically slow, medium or fast.

Maneuvers and Terms

There are many terms used in surfing, some of which are highly recognizable, even by nonsurfers. For instance, the term "hang ten" refers to a maneuver that involves standing on the nose of one's surfboard with one's feet hanging off the end. The phrase "wipe out" refers to being knocked completely off the surfboard by a wave.

Becoming a Surfer

Many individuals long to become surfers, and as a result, surf schools have been founded where individuals can go to learn the sport. Novices typically learn on longboards, which are the easiest surfboard models to master. Basic techniques and skills are taught at such schools; however, it takes commitment and motivation on the part of the student to master the sport.